Team member Tom Rekoms had this Toyota Soarer for 1 and a half years and has been drifting for 1 year.
After getting a hang on the whole drifting thing, it was time to make some more power and fix up the Toyota Soarer to make it a bit more track worthy.
A goal of around 800 HP was set, meaning 1 of 2 things: completely building and forging the 1JZ-GTE or going to a 2JZ-GTE.
We agreed on changing to a 2JZ-GTE – as there’s no need to change internals in order to make 800hp (This was not meant to happen at first, but the goal is to make the 800hp at some point as the ‘final’ result).
For this engine swap, we reused some elements of the 1JZ: the oil pan, power steering pump, and engine mounts. We also removed the airco using our A/C delete bracket kit.
General & Maintenance
After we removed the 1jz, we cleaned the engine bay and removed all unnecessary crap, not relevant for a drift car.
- Cruise control system
- ABS system
- Interior Heater Valve
- EVAP canister
- All kinds of unused hoses and tubes
- Air Conditioning
Afterwards, we went through the entire car, and checked for other parts that might need replacement or some love.
In the beginning, we wanted to replace only the fuel filter, but due to all the fuel lines being completely rotted away we ended up upgrading the entire fuel system.
However not only the fuel lines were bad, but the brake lines were also… In addition, front brake lines were routed wrong in regards to the angle kit, meaning these got squished between the control arm and wheel. Full replacement of the fuel lines and brakes line was done!
- We replaced the fuel lines with AN-8 Lines for feed and return adapted to the OEM fuel tank with a Nuke inline Fuel Filter and fitted a set of 6 800cc SARD sidefeed injectors.
- We also replaced the fuel pump with a single AEM 320LPH fuel pump for now until we go Fuelcell on the car.
For the brake system, the whole system got replaced with Stainless Steel braided Teflon AN-3 hoses and fittings.
Another point of interest was the differential. It was only mounted with one of the 3 bolts and had completely torn the differential bushing, so we replaced all diff bushings with 90K Superpro Diff bushings. (Differential Pinion Mount Bush Kit & Differential Mount Bush Kit)
Fuel System & Brakes
The car was originally an automatic, swapped by the previous owner to manual. However, and for unknown reasons, they used a MK3 Supra pedal and master cylinder. This pedal doesn’t fit nicely(AT ALL) on a Soarer and was leaking brake fluid all over the inside and outside of the car. We wanted to replace the master cylinder with a Soarer master cylinder, but of course, it does not fit the MK3 Pedal at all. We decided to just go ahead and do it properly, with a complete brand new Soarer clutch pedal setup (full kit available from CBS). This task was ABSOLUTE GARBAGE, and we hope you’ll never need to do this!
Furthermore, gearbox oil had become a nice interior lubricant, since the shifter was also leaking! We cleaned the interior and repaired the shifter.
The exhaust was a mix match of 4 different exhausts of varying sizes of tubes welded together. We quickly agreed on doing a new temporary complete 3” exhaust. This exhaust is intended to be passed down to a different Soarer in the future since the car will get a single turbo setup and therefore will need a bigger exhaust.
The 2JZ-GTE engine we provided was in really good condition, so Tom decided to leave as it was and only change/modify the parts needed in order to make the new engine function in the car.
The things we needed to replace, we fixed properly from the beginning. We also took various things into consideration fx.
- Modifying the old loom OR just making a nice new loom?
- Make the new loom to fit the old ECU OR going for a standalone?
Since we already agreed that the goal was around 800HP, spending money and time on modifying the 20-year-old Toyota Aristo loom and making it work with the Aristo ECU seemed like a waste, and not in line with the rest of the upgrades performed on the car. We made a new custom loom and went for a MAXXECU RACE standalone.
This would also simplify the entire setup, increase the amount of data and sensors available for the driver, and make it possible to squeeze everything available out of the original twin turbos as well as future proof that part of the build for the next step.
With the Maxxecu MDash we could also go ahead and remove the original cluster and replace it with an android tablet which not only displays a custom layout of data and warnings to the driver but, also accepts commands that can be sent to the ECU for anything from boost levels to 2-step rev limiter, Pit limiter, Nitrous purge, you name it…
In addition, the new custom loom was made in a way, so it’s already prepared for more sensors and features and a racespec body harness in the future.
Engine & Custom Loom
MAPPING.
The car got mapped and the results were:
Running 1.2 bars of boost, making HP 426 NM 558 on stock Jspec Twin Turbos and 98 pump gas. Fully protected with knock control and a wide range of limiters in case of issues.
The car has since then already been on track and performs great!
Next to come is a 6speed gearbox, single turbo, custom body harness and fuel cell!
Result
MORE SPECS:
Fuel system products:
- Nuke Fuel Filter
- SARD 800 Side Feed injectors
- AN-8 Feed and return
- AEM 320LPH E85 ready fuel pump
Brake system:
- Dual OEM rear brake calipers
- Full car AN-3 braided Teflon brake lines
Wire / electrics:
- CBS Racing Custom wiring harness
- MaxxECU Race
- MDash running on a Samsung Tab
Body parts:
- OEM
- OEM fenders modified by Tom
Intake:
- Large Front mount air to air intercooler
- Stock intake with an apexi Air Filter
- Nuke 50mm V-band Blow Off Valve
Suspension
- FAT Angle kit
- D2 Coilovers
- Stock rear end
Driveline:
- Stock 2JZ-GTE VVT-i
- Currently R154 with a HKS twin-disc clutch
- Stock prop shaft
- Stock Welded Differential
- Stock Axles
Hi there,
I just wanted to ask about your 1jz converted 2jzgte soarer. I’m about to do the same conversion to my own 1jz soarer and wanted to ask someone who has already done it. Like what things need to be changed in order for the 2jz to sit right in the car without any clearance issues and actually work because I’ve heard a lot of mixed opinions. So I thought someone who as already done the conversion would know best. I’d greatly appreciate the help.
Thank you
Very good blog post. I absolutely love this website. Keep writing!